Texas Manx Club

by **Faron** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 10:19 am

What happened to the updates? I was really enjoying your build, please don't stop updating us. It is so fun to watch someone who has a ton of momentum!

by **Bill K** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 10:46 am

I'm with Faron: Photos - Photos

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 10:58 am

OK - I've been taking plenty of pictures as I go, I just stopped posting them. I'll play catch up this evening when I download them off the camera.

Engine is mounted, cleaned, painted, some new chrome, exhaust almost ready to mount. Final brake pieces coming this week and I should be able to fence test the pan Murzi style shortly.

by **Don** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 11:06 am

Really looking forward to new photos.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 11:18 am

Man Cory.. you need to slow down a bit.. your making me look bad :lol:

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 11:28 am

Well I'm not getting to work on it as much as I'd like. The wife appeasement program part 2 has been taking a lot of my time. I spent all day Saturday and half of Sunday moving landscaping and removing trees.

The bodywork is going to take a lot of time, the hood/dash needs a lot of work and I'm going to attempt to make my own pods.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 09 Mon Jun, 2008 11:54 am

Yea.. I'm booked the next three weekends with family or company in town.. so it will be yet another month before I get floors made for mine :lol:

by **Faron** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 12:39 am

BUMMER!!! WHERE are the new photos?

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 8:43 pm

Ok - here are some updates.

Remember my nasty old motor?

Well here it is mounted on the pan. It is running at this point.

Time to start tearing it down

The block had been painted yellow, and then silver. The silver had worn off in spots so the yellow was showing through. I touched up the paint to cover up the yellow.

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 8:48 pm

Here are the shrouds repainted and re-assembled. Didn't think to paint the fan. It won't show but it still bugs me, will have to go back and do that.

New coat of blue on the coil. Replaced the original rusty oil filler with an aluminum one. Put a chrome alternator cover on.

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 8:51 pm

Here is a shot of the original valve cover

But underneath it looks like new

And here it is with a new valve cover

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 8:54 pm

Cannons installed

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 8:57 pm

It all still fits at this point

I don't have the carb on yet-might not work. I have a low profile aircleaner but it looks like it is going to be awful tight.

by **Aquabuggy** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:01 pm

Lookin Good Cory!

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:01 pm

Next I have to try and polish up the intake manifolds. Not quite sure what to do there yet. then I can put the carb back on and see if it all fits.

And I'm not real happy with the exhaust, it didn't tighten down quite as hard as I'd like. Whats the solution there? Put another gasket in there or something? They don't appear to be quite square with the heads, so they are a little loose on the outside edge. What can I do to correct that?

Thats where I am at right now, I have a new pulley with the degree markings, but my nut is really kind of nasty so I am going to order a new one before I take the old one off. I have the rest of my brake lines coming tomorrow so I can finish up the brakes. Chassis is getting close to wrapped up.

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:15 pm

Aquabuggy wrote:Lookin Good Cory!

Thanks Chris. I don't think it will ever be a show buggy, but it will be fun to tool around in nonetheless.

by **GregR** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:28 pm

I have a low profile aircleaner but it looks like it is going to be awful tight.

sounds like a good excuse....er..reason, yeah, reason for dual carbs!! :lol:

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:30 pm

I would - but I'm liking the fuel efficiency so I can leave the truck at home in the driveway.

by **Aquabuggy** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:35 pm

CoryN wrote:
Aquabuggy wrote:Lookin Good Cory!

it will be fun to tool around in nonetheless.

Thats what its all about FUN, drive it and enjoy it

by **MikeL** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 9:55 pm

Looking good, lets go cruisin.

by **Bill K** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 10:24 pm

You do good work, Cory. That's quite a transformation.
When it comes to a choice between showin' or cruisin', the answer is a no-brainer for the fun part of owning a buggy.
I'm not sure I understand about your exhaust not tightening down and being loose. Are the flanges on the cannons warped?
billk

by **CoryN** » 10 Tue Jun, 2008 10:27 pm

Thats kind of what I'm thinking. The outside edge(the side that is the furthest out on both sides of the car) of both the front and the rear appear to be a couple of degrees out of square with the heads. Not much, but I'm not convinced they are tight enough on the outside edges. I'm going to try a washer under the nut, the edges of the nut are hitting the welds, maybe that is keeping me from tightening it all the way down.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 7:50 am

Looking good...

You could get away with some baby webers (34 ICT's).. that would give you plenty of room around the body because they are physically small and still give you good millage.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 7:51 am

Here is a pic of them installed in my Beetle

by **Bryan Porter** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 8:34 am

Adam is right baby webers look great and run that way too
and the gas millage may be better

by **Bill K** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 9:17 am

Unfortunately, not all new parts are what they are supposed to be, and it is entirely possible the flanges are out of square. Will the place you bought them excange them if they are defective?

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 9:31 am

Probably - I'll play with them a little, they aren't off by much.

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 9:42 am

There is one other possibility to explore. The cannons are two pieces, basically a j tube and the rest of it. Its possible the j tube is a hair long, which would prevent them from sitting square. I thought about that in the middle of the night. If that is what it is, thats an easy fix. Its designed that way to fit other engines, so its possible its just off a hair.

by **staggerwing** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 9:45 am

I thought about that in the middle of the night

Oh yeah; Cory's got it too!

by **David Head** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 9:49 am

Cory, I use these nuts. They are 11mm so they are a little bit narrower. That way the exhaust tubing does not get in the way.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D43%2D6051

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 11:35 am

Good to know there is an alternative out there.

Yes - I've got it bad, many a sleepless night trying to figure something out.

What happens once its built? Start figuring out how to redo it better?

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 11:50 am

CoryN wrote:What happens once its built? Start figuring out how to redo it better?

Start planning the next one

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 11:54 am

I'm already planning out the next one, and this one isn't even done yet.

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 12:41 pm

Ok - this is going to bug the pshaw out of me

This one is on the motor, dead center on the leading edge

and this one is on the transaxle, appears to be coming from under the flange

are there solutions, or is this just a fact of life that a VW is going to mark its territory?

by **Don** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 1:20 pm

I guess you've already tried tightening the nuts 8-)

.

You should fix the transaxle now while the body is off. A new gasket should do it.

The motor is going to be a bigger problem. If retorquing the studs doesn't work then you have to live with it or split the case. BTW, what weight motor oil are you using? 20W50 can slow some leaks.

by **CoryN** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 2:05 pm

Sad thing is the transaxle is basically empty - I drained it when I had the hubs open. Must be a little in the bottom yet. I'll clean it up and tighen the nuts again and see if that stops it. I didn't take the flanges off, so I figured it would still be sealed.

Motor oil, I don't know whats in it, the oil looked fresh and beings it appears to be a new rebuild I didn't change it yet. I figured I'd wait until it was all ready to go.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 11 Wed Jun, 2008 3:36 pm

Looks pretty normal for a VW :lol:

You have to remember that there is no gasket between the two case halfs. There is a lot of folks that will argue that they shouldn't leak if there is the right sealant used between the two halfs etc.. but IMO, eventually it will start leaking no matter what you use. As the engine heats and cools it expands and contracts. Its a little much to expect that a metal to metal contact will hold the oil in 100%. I mean, think about it. Its a seam that splits the oil sump in half..

IMO no matter what you put on it.. over time it will develop some leaks and drips. As long as its not a lot... no biggie

For the tranny.. be careful about over torquing those nuts. The gaskets (yes plural, there is a few of them between there) that are between the flange and transmission case also act as shims to allow enough clearance for the axle housing to pivot in the tranny. If you get them over torqued you can bind up the axle housing. Now would be the time to try and replace those...

by **Bill K** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 12:03 am

It drives me crazy to have an oil leak under one of my vehicles. However, with my buggy I've come to live with it, and it doesn't even bother me any more. In fact when someone comments about an oil spot below my engine I simply tell them that is how you tell a real VW from a fake. If it doesn't have oil under it, then you can be sure it's a fake.

by **Don** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 10:46 am

Cory,

Did you strip your engine down to paint it? How did you paint it, rattle can? What kind of paint did you use? I really need to paint mine. Thanks.

by **David O'** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 11:13 am

If the oil is not coming out of the oil pump, then the case halves are not sealed. The only way to stop that (the right way) is to take the motor apart and clean all of the edges, and apply aviation permatex to one side and re-assemble. The one of the transmission, requires that you remove the flange, and COUNT the gaskets, and replace them with new ones. Aviation permatex also seal them in place.

by **CoryN** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 11:20 am

Don wrote:Cory,

Did you strip your engine down to paint it? How did you paint it, rattle can? What kind of paint did you use? I really need to paint mine. Thanks.

I used a silver hi-temp paint I got at Home Depot - used to paint grills. I cleaned everything off good with simple green to get the grease off. I just masked off what I didn't want to paint and rattle canned it. I was just trying to cover up the yellow paint that was bleeding through.

David - I do think its coming from between the case halves. Something I'll just have to live with until I have a reason to get inside the motor.

I will see what I can do with the transaxle though.

by **jspbtown** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 11:38 am

Ok...maybe not the most technical advice but....
How about draining the oil, cleaning the case real good, then spreading a little JB Weld over the area? Not a ton, just try to stuff it in where you think the seapage is. Its a low pressure area so it might just work.

On the tranny you can again drain, loosen the nuts, gently pry open the surface, clean again in between (brake or carb cleaner), and a light squeeze of some grey RTV?

I know...I know...not the best or most proper way...but it may buy some riding time.

by **CoryN** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 11:57 am

Glad to see someone else thinking along those lines. I wasn't going to publicize that I was thinking that.

It would appear I've done several halfa$$ things on this buggy a few more won't hurt. ;-)

by **Don** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 12:16 pm

Just my 2 cents but I wouldn't do the JB Weld trick. If it sticks too well then the case seam might be damaged when you do split it.

by **CoryN** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 12:19 pm

I agree - I wasn't going to try the JB Weld.

by **jspbtown** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 12:51 pm

I was just thinking a paper thin smearing. JB is strong stuff but not that strong.

by **Texasbuggys** » 12 Thu Jun, 2008 6:42 pm

Engine case sealant! Gasgacinch I think is the way it is spelled. If not shoot me. Works very well on the VW as was noted earlier, the case continulally heats up and cools off expanding the pulling back in so you have to seal it with something that can take the heat and stay pliable to provide good sealing. I have had a few engines built in the past with it and it worked very well.

http://gasgacinch.com/gasgacinch_003.htm

by **Don** » 05 Tue Aug, 2008 9:52 am

Any updates Cory?

by **CoryN** » 05 Tue Aug, 2008 10:55 am

Unfortunately I haven't had a great deal of time to work on it this summer. We put a pool in, and as a result most of my free time has been applied to landscaping. That and I've had to do quite a bit of traveling due to work.

That being said, I did go out last night and work on it a little. Basically the pan is complete except fluids and a gas line so I have turned my attention to the fiberglass.

The previous owner removed a good bit of the firewall, and as a result the fenders spread out about an inch. As the hood was attached to the fenders, it spread also, causing a couple of pretty good size tears along the side that I discovered underneath a good application of bondo, and the top of the dash was actually concave. I fixed both of those issues and last night I started filling in the holes in the dash. Amazing how fast resin sets up in 107 degree heat.

I've moved my estimated completion out to spring.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 05 Tue Aug, 2008 11:49 am

CoryN wrote:I've moved my estimated completion out to spring.

I may beat you yet.. LOL

I know the feeling though.. I've been traveling for work quite a bit too. This summer just seemed to keep us running 90 different directions. I'm hoping after its over things will calm back down and I'll start making good progress again.

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