Floors

[Vee Dub Nut]

Ok... trying to nail down how I'm going to do the floors in the buggy..

Option 1:

1"x2" perimeter tubing with the floor made from 16Ga sheet. Then three braces (one near the front, two near the back for the seat mount) on each side from tunnel to perimeter using the extra tubing

Option 2:

1.25" x 1" perimeter tubing with floors made up of cut down stock VW pan halfs.


I like the look of the VW pans, and I think it would be easier in a sense to put together. I can probably scrounge up some tubing, and then pick up pans at Buggy Warehouse in town. Option 1 would most definitely be stronger, but be more difficult and time time consuming to install. Quite a bit more hastle dealing with getting metal shipped to the shop and cutting it down and fitting it.. Price comes out in the wash

Thoughts?

[Texasbuggys]

Option one or two size would work, I would go with plate flooring, much stronger and will last longer.

[Don]

Disclaimer: I've never actually done it myself.

Since your chassis is already shortened I think option 1 might actually be easier. From what I heard, shortening floor pans after the fact is a bear. That being said, I'm with you on the look of stock pans. Most guys here like a lot of mods, that's fine. For me, I like the nostalgia of a close to stock buggy. I'd like to think my buggy could have been built in the 60's or 70's. Then again, my buggy keep breaking down so what do I know.

[jspbtown]

I used 1x2" steel for the periimter and 3/16 diamondplate floors. I got my material online at www.discountsteel.com for $260 shipped to Massachusetts. I think there is one in Texas so shipping or even pickup would be cheaper. They sell custom cut sizes so there was minimal waste (just enough for a shifter linkage cover and front plate). I welded a 3/4" angle onto the tube for the plate to sit on and trimmed the rear lip (where it rises up), off and added some 3/4" angle to make the floor perfectly flat. This adds leg room and imroves the seating. It was also tough as nails.

[CoryN]

To follow up, there is a discount steel in Ft Worth. They had good pricing on diamondplate, but I fell into some plain sheetmetal for free so I didn't go that route.

[Bill K]

As one who has done it (shorten stock pans) I would recommend option 1. I can tell you from experience, shortening pans is not an easy job if you want them to look half decent.
I used 1 x 1 box tubing for my outer frame, and put a plate under the foot area of the pans becase the pans just felt too flimsy in that area.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c243/ ... e941e6.jpg

I know that if I build another buggy is will not be using shorten pans.

That's just my opinion, for what it's worth.

[Vee Dub Nut]

Thanks folks.. Going to stick with option 1 which was my initial plan.

I talked to the steel company this morning and I'm just waiting for another order to come through for SwRI so my order can piggyback and get free delivery

Also scored some stainless tubing long enough for my fuel line from the old scrap pile behind the shop

*Hopefully* my order will come in this week or next.. otherwise it will end up being another two weeks after that, before I can work on it again. Need to make some progress

[CoryN]

I need to run a new stainless line as well. How do you intend to anchor it in the tunnel, or do you?

[Vee Dub Nut]

I need to run a new stainless line as well. How do you intend to anchor it in the tunnel, or do you?

I'm going to run mine outside the tunnel. The fuel line that was in the tunnel was not in all that great of shape, and gave me a lot of trouble when shorting the chassis. I eventually got frustrated and ripped it all out. Figured I would run mine alongside the outside of the tunnel on the passengers side.

[jspbtown]

I ran both my new fuel line and rear brake lines right under the center of the tunnel for my Manx. I used little rubber insulated clamps and riveted them to the underside. A healthy coating of Herculiner will ensure long life. And even if they don't last....then they will be VERY easy to replace. This made my floor pan look alot cleaner.

Of course if you plan off road then you may want to go another way.

For my newest project I ran the fuel line in the tunnel since I am relocating the shifter and e-brake. I wrapped small sections of rubber hose around the line and zip tied it inside the tunnel.

[CoryN]

mine sat with both ends exposed for 25 years, so I do not intend to use it. I'd like to run mine down the tunnel though, just for the clean look if I can figure out a good way to do it.