Texas Manx Club

by **CoryN** » 08 Sun Nov, 2009 9:35 pm

Is there a reason you only see narrowed beams in even inch increments? I see 2 inch narrowed beams, 3 inch etc.

Why not 2 1/2 or some odd amount?

by **Jack Duncan** » 08 Sun Nov, 2009 10:12 pm

With the wide varity of wheel backspacing, I don't suppose half inch increments is really that important.

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 7:59 am

just up to whoever is doing the cutting.

by **Bryan Porter** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 9:27 am

The ones I have done are never right on 1 or 2 inchs just close there is no reason it could be any size you want

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 9:32 am

Thanks - I'm kicking myself for not buying that one at the swap, but I think I can go a little more than 2 inches and really tuck them up under there.

Do tie rod ends have enough threads to take up a couple of inches, or do you have to shorten the rod itself also?

by **Bryan Porter** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 10:03 am

You have to shorten the tie rods also.

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 10:10 am

Bryan Porter wrote:You have to shorten the tie rods also.

Well then there is no sense going with chrome ones if I have to be welding on them.

by **Bryan Porter** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 10:17 am

Just cut the end with right hand threads and run a tap a little deeper and your good to go.

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 10:26 am

Cool - thats easy enough.

Thank you sir.

by **jspbtown** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 11:01 am

Cory

Just remember that you move the shock towers inward when you shorten the beam. There is usually a clearance issue with the towers and the body if you go too much.

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 11:07 am

I've got at least an inch to an inch and a half clearance there on each side, and I could cut away some material and go farther if I need to. There isn't anything on the other side of the glass. And I still have several inches of clearance with the tire turned all the way between the tire and the tub.

My front wheels sit further forward than most, so I think it will work well tucking them in.

by **BrianB** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 11:15 am

Man, my link pin front end is within a half inch on each side. No room on mine to do that unless I get rid of the shock towers. :cry:

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 11:58 am

On the beam I was looking at the had cut away the raised portion of the shock tower on the insides and replaced it with flat stock effectively gaining another inch of clearance. Slick.

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 12:57 pm

Steering Dampener? I have a tired one now - stick with it or dump it as part of the process?

by **Bryan Porter** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 1:25 pm

by **Vee Dub Nut** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 1:33 pm

IMO, keep the steering damper and shocks, they are there for a reason. Sure its drivable without them, but I can guarantee you it will be different.

Also, don't cheap out and cut off the roller bearings from the ends and use urethane inserts. They are not nearly as good as OG roller bearings in the beam ride quality wise. Narrow from the center in.

This is coming from someone who's has driven all the different combos (dropped spindles vs stock spindles, shocks vs no shocks, urethane vs roller bearing, etc)

by **GregR** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 1:33 pm

Cory,

give Doug at Custom Buggy Parts a shout. Take a look at his website. He works out of Hawkeye's shop and does really nice work. His front beams are built to arder and solid.
http://www.custombuggyparts.com/Torsion%20Gallery.htm

by **CoryN** » 09 Mon Nov, 2009 1:50 pm

Will do.

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